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Lipan goes north to Alaska. Winter of 1969 and Lipan
is tasked with a three month cruise to the island of Adak in the
Aleutian Archipelago for SAR duty (Search and Rescue). The
three month cruise ended up lasting six months and saw Lipan involved in
everything from SAR to support missions involving the detonation of a
nuclear device on the island of Amchitka. This is a cover photo of
the Adak Sun, the base newsletter, welcoming Lipan to the hinterlands. |
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The cover story of the Adak Sun welcoming Lipan and
displaying a photo of our skipper, Lt Commander Joseph Demarke III. |
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As we approached the Aleutians the ocean depth became steadily
shallower but we could not yet see land. We doubled the lookouts
and the bridge was a busy place as we strained to see an island.
Most of us had never been to Alaska and, although we had made countless
landfalls throughout Hawaii and the Western Pacific, few of us knew what
a snow covered island looked like. Then lookout "Lucy" Sutton said, "Hey that
big cloud ahead of us ain't a cloud." In the colorless region land
and sky mingled. The skipper renamed the island "Sutton Island." |
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Adak. We arrived at night and a pilot was sent out to us.
He directed our skipper to steer towards a red light ashore but,
mistakenly, it was a taillight on a jeep on the pier. As we
approached BM2 Bob Carroll was in charge on the forecastle and in the
darkness and ever present fog he saw a pier ahead of us and screamed
into the headset, "Bridge, Bridge, backdown full!" We came within
inches of plowing into the pier. The jeep driver was trying to get
away as fast as he could, with Lipan diligently following mistakenly
after him. |
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Sweepdown the ship. What a hassle. Brooms were
useless and we had to scamper to find shovels. It snowed
constantly in the Aleutians that winter but it was a light and fluffy
low-moisture content snow and it mostly blew away. Still, it was a
nuisance, along with the constant freezing cold and high winds.
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There was no color in the Aleutians in the winter.
Everything was a hue of black and white. The gypsyhead on Lipan's
anchor windlass is starting to show some rust and is the only color in
the photo. |
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Adak was strictly a military base. No Alaskans lived on the
island. It had an airport and a harbor but its main function was
early detection of ICBM launches over the pole from the Soviet Union.
Atop Mount Moffet (seen here) were gigantic "White Alice" radars, housed
in huge geodesic white domes that looked like massive golf balls sitting
on the mountain. All part of the old dewline (Distant Early
Warning) radar system that monitored the Soviets during the cold war. |
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Fowl weather gear was the uniform of the day for anybody who
would be topside for any length of time. Here's a shot of me in
the black beret visiting with lookout Leslie (Lucy) Sutton GMSN on the
flying bridge. Lucy was a big lovable teddy bear of a guy. |
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Lipan would make a monthly trip to the island of Atka to service
the tiny Aleut Indian fishing village there. We'd handle the mail
for them and provide transportation to citizens who needed it. On
one trip we took an 8-month pregnant woman aboard for transport back to
Adak and a flight to a hospital for her child's impending birth.
It was a short overnight trip but the seas were always horrendous, as
they were throughout the area. |
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Pulling into Kobakoff Bay on the island of Atka. Even the
harbor had choppy waters, strong currents and strong winds and when we
tied up at the pier there we had to keep the main engines running and
the screw turning just to stay tied up. Atka was the site of a
military buildup during WW-II and it was loaded with scattered abandoned
military equipment. It had hundreds (if not thousands) of
old stacked 55-gallon gasoline drums which were still being siphoned for
the one official village vehicle. |
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Another shot of Kobakoff Bay Atka. The small fishing
village housed the only inhabitants on the entire island. When
Lipan pulled in they would jump in their outboard motorboats and drive
out to greet us and welcome us to their village. These hardy men
were dressed minimally and seemed impervious to the freezing salt spray
and high winds. It was a big event on the island when the monthly
visit occurred. |
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Another shot of Kobakoff Bay in Atka. |
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Lipan tied up at the pier at Atka. Note the slack in the
stern line. We were technically still underway, with the engine
room and bridge manned. The strong currents and winds necessitated
this unusual circumstance. The pier was WW-II vintage and was
stacked with traps for Alaskan King Crabs, one of the main sources of
income. |
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Lipan looks as if she is peering over the crab traps, looking for
her ashore crewmembers. The gentleman in the photo is a U.S.
Government Postal Official who accompanied us each trip, responsible for
the pickup and delivery of mail. Note that Lipan is flying the
ensign from the A-frame indicating that she is indeed still in an
underway status. |
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The crab traps stacked on the pier at Atka with their floats. |
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A close up shot of one of the King Crab traps. These traps
were about the size of a telephone booth, ganged together in bunches of
three I think, and this one has a dead Spider Crab within it. In
those days they kept only the King Crabs and tossed the Spider Crabs
back into the ocean as nuisance catch. With the depletion of
fishes in the oceans I assume that practice is no longer practical. |
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The pier at Atka stretched out quite a distance into the harbor.
During WW-II this section that I am standing on was blownup to inhibit
the Japanese from landing troops directly ashore. The Japanese did
occupy some of the Aleutians during the war. The pier was never
fixed and this "temporary" bridge across the span was still being used
in 1969. I wonder if its still like that? |
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IC Chief Ventenilla makes the long trek back to Lipan. The
long "T" shaped pier had the missing section and dozens of holes
throughout it, some covered over and some open. You
really had to watch your step. The walk to the village was
lengthy but it was interesting to see it and how sparse things were. |
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The fishing village at Atka. The houses were small
shack-like structures with minimal paint on them, as would be expected
in this harshest of climates. They had no modern conveniences and
one house had a small store setup in its living room to supply the
locals with basic needs. Note the outboard motorboats nestled into
the rocky shore. |
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A couple of houses in the village. That black dot in the
sky is an eagle but until I rescan my photos at a higher resolution (IF
I can find them again) you'll have to take my word for it. |
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This building had something to do with children because it had
two bunny rabbit figures painted over the barn-like doors so it must
have been a school of some type for the local kids. I don't recall
ever seeing any children while we were there. Actually, other than
our initial greeting, we saw few
of the residents. There was one retired Navy Chief Petty Officer
who was the liaison to the U.S. Federal Government from the village and
he lived there year round to tend to the needs of the villagers.
He drove the jeep, was the mayor, the FD, the Police, the Court.
Everything. |
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L to R Bill McKelly RD2, Parker ET2, me BM2, and Paul
Silman SM2 enjoying a day of liberty ashore. Quite a difference
from the typical liberty ports such as Olongopo in Subic Bay in the
Philippines. |
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Ahhh, the beach! |
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The onion-domed Russian Orthodox Church and burial grounds on the hillside
next to it. The Aleutians were Russian at one time until Seward
bought Alaska from them and the Russian Orthodox Religion is widely
practiced throughout the region. The archipelago is closer to
Russia than the U.S. and its strategic value was immeasurable during the
cold war. |
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SN Bob Stradford in front of a house on Atka. Bob was a
great asset in this harsh area because he never got seasick, no matter
how rough it got. He was one of the few men aboard who could steer
the ship during the worst weather and, because of that, the poor guy
spent countless hours on the bridge while most were too sick to get out
of their racks. "Strad" was a dependable strong guy while he was on Deck
Force and I relied on him quite a bit. |
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Me doing some window shopping on Atka. |